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You just have no skill or patience. 95% of all 80% lowers where done on a drill press and 75% of those where done on cheap harbor freight drill presses. So don't don't do it. many have and many more will. You just need to go slow, set the drill at the proper speed for what you are milling and make sure you do not do climbing cuts.
funny, your drill press is still ok. so without any bad experience you say it cant be done, and you say it is dangerous. anyway i live not far from a milling machine factory. and the cheaper models all are drill press tops with a rotary handle instead of a drill press handle. and a decent crosstable on the bottom. you should not be doing diy stuff if you dont trust yourself...
I think the key point is it's bad to put a side load on a morse taper - they can work lose.
You can do milling with an old delta drill press the old ones that has the cast iron head. You are right about your drill press being a piece of crap. I’ve got one just like it. Although I’ve made money with it. I’ve drilled a lot of 1/4” holes in 3/16” stainless. Yours and my drill press is better for woodwork that metal. I have an old delta and a 20 year old powermatic that was made in the United States before they went to China. There are no new drill presses that are made here nowadays except Clausing and you and I can’t afford one of those. Powermatic is charging the same price as if they were made in the United States and they are total junk. So are the new deltas. Days of good affordable equipment have gone by. Some of the older China presses are better that the new ones today.
I succesfuly use a press drill as a mill by replacing the drw bar by a "T" bolt the size of the slot of the MT2 and titening the MT2 to ER20 adaptator by the botom.It give me a very cheap milling able to do very good small jobs.
I’ve never milled anything.. and was thinking of trying a drill press to mill with... but I thought it might be dangerous... thanks for the video.
Not true I used a harbor freight 8in drill press for my polymer80 lower no issues did it in 30 mins works awesome highly recommend to use them no issues don't complicate the process
Drill press could be converted into milling machine,however you need to stabilize table support bracket,second slot have to be grinded or dremeled down for secondary guide rail..It is very important that main table along with milling compound table and vises secured and never turn side ways,this could ruin your work and ruin drill press spindle assembly if it would turn out of point...
a drill press is not a milling machine and don't drive nails with your adjustable wrench , ever heard " you have to be smarter than the tool " #1 make sure you have the right tool for the job and #2 know how to use it properly/safely ;-)
Thanks for the advice,but u have to get one that made to do light machining like a mill drill press
I say your a tool learn how much pressure to apply while milling your part an use cutting oil
Mathew Molnar .....you’re
Put the cutter straight into the chuck and crank the table up close. Very limited but you can machine nylon, wood, small cuts in alloy.I have done nylon it with a borrowed cross vice and the chap I borrowed it from does quite a lot of small jobs, has even faced eg 2 thou cuts on mild steel
A word to the wise....thank you.
k .vern yes it can be done its just beyond your scope of knowledge check old 1940s 50s popular mechanics and science people for war effort were doing it add a spindle soupport additional pully drop speed get rid of stock drill chuck
*I'm a life-long woodworker>>>**sau.pe/5AHk** at one time professional cabinetmaker and furniture maker with a full shop of stationery tools. Now have a small garage and limited to a few stationery and lots of portable tools. I just received this thing and have only used it once so far, but impressed with it. I don't have a regular need for a scroll saw, but needed one for a small (size) project. This thing fit the bill. I like that it comes in a good carrying/storage case. Easy to set up. Strong motor. Easy to use. Easy to pack up and store. I agree with others, changing blades is a PITA. But give the price, and the overall build, it's not that big a deal. I have other Dremel products, and have been generally pleased with them over many years (the exception being the battery powered ones - won't make that mistake again).*
On milling an 80% lower most of the work is done by drilling out the pocket for the trigger pack. There is very minimal millwork left to do but clean out the places the drill bit didn't get. I use a Shop Fox drill press 3/4 hp motor that has an MT2 taper spindle. I drilled a very small hole in the bottom of the spindle and through the ER25 collet holder and use a hardened steel drive pin to hold everything in place. When the bearings go bad I will replace them with an upgrade set. I have another cheaper drill press just for drilling.
The tapered shaft above the chuck (also inside the chuck, it depends), both are just pushed/pressed up into the quill, which is designed for downward force, and constantly keeps the two pushed together...*There is nothing physically holding it in position (like a drawbar)…* So, with enough pressure over time, especially in opposite directions, it "could" work its way loose and drop out of the quill ...unless you get lucky. Feel free to try it, but I'm not gonna risk it... There are plenty cheap mod's to make it 100% safe for lateral side loading...Although, "Precision" will be your next hurdle.
MrTrekFanDan Exactly. Thanks for commenting
Ok take some 1/4 inch flat stock stainless take the bit your going to use drill a hole through it dremmel about .010 off hole Id put it about 1/4 inch from the chuck over the bit take some 1 inch square stock to make upright supports same width as flat stock with hole to go from flat stock to the top of press to keep it from being able to come out more than 1/4 inch weld it all together than from the upright supports go from uprights to around the the vertical z axis it travels up and down on build a square stock cage around it again leave about 1/4 inch all the way around there weld it together so now you have a unmovable cage so the chuck can't go more than a 1/4 inch down from the spindle and can't go more than a 1/4 inch on x or y axis from true position if it lets loose it won't go anywhere now your safe for ease of use take slightly bigger square stock where the id slips over existing od of square stock as a sleeve cut cage in half on uprights to top of motor and on y axis that goes around z axis travel sleeve them weld one side drill holes through other sides weld nuts on one side or leave through holes and put a bolt through and nut to hold cage in place so it's removable problem solved
First off do not try and machine metals with cheaply made Japanese products only good for lite wood or plastic get your self good old American machinery and Experience the difference
Drill and tap the quill for a set screw to lock a Morris taper chuck.
Another way is to use an actual MT2 End Mill Holder. Put the End Mill Holder in the freezer and get it nice and cold. Remove the Drill Press Chuck and taper. Carefully heat the quill with a torch and be careful not to overheat the bearing. Using a mallet and a wood block whack the End Mill Holder into the quill as tight as possible. (obviously you need the table empty and as low as possible, or swing it out of the way, to give you room to hit the wood block.) Once the temperatures stabilize the holder will be in the quill very tight and you can start milling. Just take it slow and easy. My setup. Although I haven't installed the End Mill Holder yet. Still using the chuck for this lower receiver.i1248.photobucket.com/albums/hh500/AF_Veteran/0629181240_zpsrumlcavl.jpgi1248.photobucket.com/albums/hh500/AF_Veteran/SN855191_zpstlau02ye.jpg
I have done several on drill presses the best way I found is to plunge cut most of the material out so all you have left is a small amount on the sides to clean up and go slow
It's more a problem of that tiny ass drill press you have that came from sears or wherever it came from. I'd be afraid to use that for anything more than occasional drilling.
You really could have bought an older mill for what you paid for all that junk.
Daniel Currie I couldn’t find any mill that was decent anywhere close to the 300$ mark and I’ve looked for 10 years
BS I put out multiple 80% lowers off of a wen 10in drill press fro, Home Depot never had that problem
Yeah,it's usually a Morse taper going into the quill and a Jacobs taper going into the chuck.either way a milling machine uses a DRAWBAR to tighten the tool so it can take a lateral load,the drill press cannot take the lateral load so your chuck will almost always fall out
Buddy, 8 of my friends have had no issues milling 80% aluminum at jigs with ,Chicago elect drill press, you need to go ssslllloooooowww
I'm fine because I am using the proper bit, am experienced, am taking a hair sliver off at a time, moving carefully and slowly, and it's a wee little wooden instrument bridge. This may very well help someone, and I highly approve, but... this is great for folks that think they're going to whip something (half careless they get away with on a Bridgeport) on their Central Machinery $75 drill press at home just 'cause they got a cross slide and think they're in business. But on the same token I hate seeing people get discouraged from doing the very possible when it's all that's within their budget. People are so often told their low-budget banjo or violin is nothing more than a wall ornament just because most people can't perform basic lutherie mods (so the person never learns violin because they never have $700 but they could have modded a so-called Violin Shaped Object or VOS THEMSELF into a nice-sounding, playable beginner instrument) All this comes from the fact that yes, it's cheaper and way more practical to buy a problem-free instrument than it is to give a messy one to a luthier and pay for mods. But people take that sentiment and don't realize their instrument was made at the same Chinese violin-blank-factory the supposed VOS was and they were just completed differently (therefore with a little know-how one can get the VOS and make it almost as nice or in some cases nicer for hundreds AND hundreds less). Same goes for a supposedly worthless vintage Asian banjo I got for $50 and is now the nicest sounding one I have despite me sinking a pretty penny on another. But in safety, I guess, generalities are the safest route to go, because especially in the workplace, or around the impatient or imprudent, too many ifs ands or buts go in one ear and out the other and it's "Hey Jeff milled a little butter nothing wood with his, so I can slam 30 thou of metal off sideways with mine, 'saul good..." (kablooey)
Bolt chuck on
still don't know why you cannot mill with it
A lot of the hazard with milling on a drill press can be eliminated by plunge cutting and drilling the biggest part of the lower. then all that's left is minor clean up. I've milled a few lowers on a Wen 8" drill press with good success this way. Used a Grizzly X-Y vise. Just make sure you get plunge cut mill cutters. Not all cutters will plunge cut.
Plunge cut with a drilling bit and then end mill the tiny bit that is left. In your case, it is a technique or skill issue, and not the tools themselves. Hope this helps you bud.
Right on man, thanks for the tip.. Cheers!
I haven't had any problems on my floor drill press. If what you are saying is correct , why would all the drill press mfg's make drum sanders for their drill presses??
tfr51 I agree
Drum sanding and milling are totally different operations.
tires2burn Sanding is done at a much lower speed and is probably noted as a safe practice when common safe practices are observed. Razor sharp milling attachments that generate much more lateral force and are spinning at much higher speeds pose a much greater danger.
you can mill with a press lol, just don't push it too hard
Oh BS. I don't say that very often. You are just spouting the same biased junk I have heard elsewhere. First of all, know how to use the drill press. Second, know the limitations of the machine. Third, learn from some old machinists how to use that machine as a mill. It will not be as fast, but with care and knowledge, it will do acceptable work. Yes, it was designed for downward pressure, but it is also equipped with dual ball bearings on the drive shaft and will handle a side pressure load, just not near as much as a full milling machine. Half the jokers on youtube complaining are trying to start the mill process with the mill end inches from the work, and then half of them try to use an end mill as if it were a side mill. Every single one of them I have watched tries to take WAY to big of a cut (> 10 thou at a time in aluminum). Reminds me of those guys who buy a drill, start trying to ram the bit through the steel they are cutting, break the bit and then blame either the bit or the drill as being to cheap. Gets old.
I got a big box of kleenex for all the cry babies. I would 1st drill and then finish with a router in a jig.
Paul Andrulis if you wanna use a 3mm drill bit on fiberboard, I’m sure it will be fine. Anything else, good luck.
no taking small cuts does not necessarily mean it will take forever , maybe milling out a receiver I'm not sure about that . but any plastics done this way should be fine , my advice would be to order your metal stock close enough to size as possible
having to take less than 10 thou cuts at a time is exactly why you're not supposed to do it. it can't handle it. obviously you can cut anything if you take light enough cuts but it will take you forever and it can be dangerous.
I agree I do have a machinist back round and I am certified and I did work in the field for about 5 years in no way am I a master machinist but I sure agree small cuts on soft metals plastics or wood is they key and I saw it the comments to make a sort of brace with a roller bearing up against the spindle ( wouldn't hurt and I'm sure it would make a difference it would probably wear spindle bearings a lot less . this set up would for sure take longer but would get the job done for sure especially in a pinch .
Buy a Morse tapered end mill Colette and you’ll be alright
I agree with you 100%. I have had the drill chuck separate from the J6 taper, so with that in mind...It is dangerous, but I have finished both AR-10, and AR-15 80% polymer lowers beautifully with mine. Don't even try metal though, unless you are only removing a few thousandths of an inch. Also, with the side loading being the main problem, best results are obtained by plunge-roughing SLOWLY, moving over radially only about .005 per plunge for aluminum, and .025 max for the plastics.
I assume the terminology I used is correct haha thanks again
Michael, that is a great tip about plunge milling, this way it will be conventional and climb milling at the same time minimizing the uneven side loading. Thanks so much for the comment!
Side load! Hahaha! Seriously, you have no idea what you are saying. Not only is this safe, it's actually preferred to an actual mill in some cases, depending on the material.
you are correct it is dangerous and could also cause serious injury I have a machinist back round and I have seen end mills break fly out parts fly out of vice you name it thankfully it was on cnc with safety doors always paid more attention on those manual mills that's for sure . but I would think a roller bearing brace as mentioned above would prob work fine plastics r wood I think would be fine and soft metals as long as you are literally slivering it off . but I think plastics and wood would be fine as long as your not trying to finish the work in 2 passes
scott p my information came from machinist articles and speaking with an actual career machinist. This was a video that I threw together because many people don't realize the bearings in many drill presses are not designed for side loading. To each their own though I say go for it if you want to. This is a highly debated video. I'll ask you this, have you ever seen the chuck holding a 2" face milling bit drop out of the taper when side loading a drill press that doesn't have a bolt locked drab bar? I haven't and I promise you I never will.
I've been thinking of converting my drill press to a mill as well. Thanks for the words of caution. These are all issues I have contemplated so it's good to get confirmation from another who has researched the same project.Given the cost of sourcing a good XY table and milling head and the time required to properly install them, buying a used or new low end mill begins to make sense. Have you gone down this path as well?
I have an old Walker Turner 900 Series drill press that is made for machining. Its not a modern mill, but it will take he side loads with no problem. A lot of the old ones will mill fine with a compound vice as long as you don't exceed what they were realistically made to do. That, and I keep it lubed and go slow with everything. Works well though. Its the newer ones that are junk. If you get an old drill press they are much more powerful and durable than a newer one.
Mr. Anderson thanks for the info. I'm still looking for a good machine. And thanks for watching.
what about using router bits to trim edges of wood? not pushing terribly hard and the press is up at its max rpm.
1019wc1019 there is a chance of the morse taper falling out of the quill. A loose router bit at max drill press speeds is not a great thing. As a general rule, side loading a drill press where the chuck is held into the quill with a taper friction is an unsafe practice.
Wondering if my cheap HF drill press can be used manually to work as a hobby die or leather stamp press?
May need to custom make some more sturdy handles if they flex too much
WhimZpix absolutely! I have used mine many times for various pressing needs. I have no idea of a safe working pressure but I imagine they will do what you are suggesting quite easily. Definitely worth looking into.
Thumbs up for safety first!!! From a former RN who has seen too many avoidable injuries.
Common sense would tell you that, yeah, milling with a drill press would eventually destroy your drill press...especially chinese junk found at all box stores today.
Bone Headed Common sense is one thing, most people have no idea that the inner workings of a drill are vastly different than a mill. I didn't grow up in a machine shop so I had to learn by research. I hope this video keeps people from making a dangerous mistake. Thanks for commenting and watching.
"IF" the drill bit you had in the chuck is what are using for milling you are correct that bit is not made for it, but if you used a proper milling bit you'd be fine.
thank you, great video.and have a good day as well
Scott Long no worries, side loading a taper chuck is dangerous period. It's documented and written as an unsafe practice. But to each their own man have a good day and thanks for watching
I know, but if you use the right bit for the job you should not be putting that much torque on the chuck, and or the bearings.P.S sorry about my wording in the previous post i guess it did come across that way.
Scott Long haha I wasn't talking about the drill bit.
Safety is great. Not knowing about milling - in past years I have put massive sideloads on the drill press with large sanding drums, rasp heads, rasp drill bits, fly cutter heads, etc. in various woods and metals - the 1955 Craftsman never flinched. These would be larger sideloads than it would experience taking with a smallish mill bit taking off a few thou from most any material. Perhaps luck over the last 40 years. Not likely. But I'll check it out more closely, don't recall this DP using a friction fit taper but only a threaded chuck.
stick to guitar hero bro!!! just kidding probably some good advice . thanks
"I don't know why we don't make it here," says the guy buying Chinese equipment instead of commonly-available US-made machines...
he stated a new usa made drill press not used
yeah right pal. most american made power tools went the way of the wooly mammoth.
Have you tried Craigslist or Ebay? I see older drill presses made in the US on CL all the time.
PhillipThomas Commonly available where? I searched for 5 years for a new USA made drill press. If they exist I couldn't find it.
I guarantee you that the Chinese Uni-Tech industrial model drill presses can mill without a problem. For example the Ellis drill press is the same drill press from Uni-Tech model VS32, but ellis slapped on it made in USA sticker because the electric controls box is theirs and not the Chinese stock controls which are durable anyways.... Ellis is the same exact drill press and most likely made by Uni-tech from China, there are some very good tools made by Chinese, just you have to pay the price and that's the bottom line.
Look at the specs your self, it is not mill but considering its build should take on task on milling. They make Milling tables for it also: DRILL www.uni-techmachinery.com/Drill-Machine/Auto-feeding-drill-Machine/Auto-feeding-Drilling-Machine-VS-16,VS-25,VS-32.htm MILLING TABLE www.uni-techmachinery.com/Machinery-Accessories/Cross-Table/Cross-slide-table-AKP-series-201,202,203,204,205.htm Here is the Ellis one supposedly manufactured in USA.... ( same drill, just different control box)www.ellissaw.com/drill-press-9400/ These type of drills should have no problem taking on milling tasks, I'm sure dedicated mill is the way to go and they make one like the Bridgeport clone in all sort of variations www.uni-techmachinery.com/Milling-machine/Turret-milling-machine/Turret-milling-machine-UTM-OS,MDM-2SS.htm For home use even shop medium milling usage the industrial drill press + the milling table should be plenty, they are build like a tank, not sure if the quill has ball bearings on the side
bazemk5111979 I don't know about these models. So they have a draw bar style chuck that won't fall out? And they have side load capable bearings? If not, they are not designed to be used as a mill.
Really good info. Much thanks.
You are welcome, thanks for watching.
Have you seen AvE's video on this?
Not yet but I will check it out thanks
get an MT to end mill tool holder draw bar and modify your press in two ways, upgraded bearings and/or additional slide bearings/rails to take the axial pressure away from the spindle setup, and modify the quill so that it does not rely on only friction fitting to stay secured. that said, i find WEN makes a nice "cheap" press that is a step above HF and chinesium generics for around the same price, and when its said and done, taking great care in the way your use your "mill press" will go a long way toward your goal of staying alive, and possibly fertile.
Haha excellent info man I'll check into them, thanks allot.
would have been nice to see it in action
ok that's a good idea I'll demo this drill press in a video soon please subscribe and ring the bell to get the vid upload notifications. Thank you
What you can do is build a roller bearing support or backup for the quill. Basically it goes up against the quill, ,or shaft, or even the chuck, each situation is different. It just takes the side loading off the quill and adds much needed rigidity to the setup.Have fun, Gerry
gerry mckown thats good info thanks!
I got the same Porter cable drill press and I milled out about 10 7075 lowers with no problem as long as you take it easy and don't overdo your cuts you'll be OK
Frankly White I just wonder about cumulative damage to the bearings and not reseating the taper occasionally, it's just written as an unsafe practice. I have a 4 year old daughter, I'm not doing it again. Thanks for sharing. And commenting
fyi ....milling on drill press can be done...was done during ww11 mom and pop shops..theres braces add from collum to spindle..south bend used to make or check old popular science and mechanix from the 1930...40s....get some skills
Miguel Castaneda people in the 40s also drove around drunk without seatbelts all the time. So what? Heck, Romans sweetened their wine with fucking lead salts, does that make that okay too? There's a reason mom and pops USED to do this.
I have a drill press mill, changed the bearings for roller bearings and added a b16 to EA20 collet extension and double set screws in the side of the extension on opposite sides (for balance) to hold the collet onto the b16 spendel, works fine. I also have a Multi Function Milling Working Table Milling Machine Compound Drilling Slide, with a scissor jack to raise and lower table. It can be done even on a piece of harbor freight 8" ""chinese crap"".
Local-Yokel interesting I would like to make this conversion one day. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you for this video. I have noticed on Germany's Amazon website most of their drill presses are sold with a guard. I have just purchased a Harbor Freight 8" for less than any other in the market and will one day work my way up. I will only use it as intended plus a drum sander.
Reginald Spence Great! Glad to hear it. Thanks for watching
Who said you can mill with a drill press, its a drill press not a milling machine duuhhh
I have a 8inch Harbor Freight drill press.im planing yousing 2 mill a polymer Phoenix Gen 2 80%) eny suggestions? On what compact XY vise I should youse?
Haha mill not milk
Hey there sorry for the late reply, I don't get all of my notifications, man you really need to find a good USA one like I did. Maybe there is a good one made in China but I couldn't find it. Good luck and just make sure you understand the dangers of trying to milk with a drill press, it's very dangerous.
Well thank you - a short video that stopped me wasting time and money trying (on the back of some RU-clip videos) a machine modification that would have ruined my very good drill press and probably injured me.
Peter Walker Yes sir, glad I could help. I'm glad I learned about this before I inured myself as well.