CANUCK OUTDOORS
CANUCK OUTDOORS
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Comments

  • Billy Bags
    Billy Bags 26 days ago

    Use drill with jack crank to raise and lower jack

  • Donna Ingram
    Donna Ingram 3 months ago

    *Lightweight, good fit, easy to use with highback kayak or SUP>>>**allabout.wiki/vbg3** I love all the pockets things stay very secure, and I can hold a ton of stuff. Zipper works well, seems to be a bit of a low quality zipper but so far so good.*

  • rjguess1
    rjguess1 4 months ago

    This happens to my pedestal seats all the time. I get sick of having to remove them completely from the floor just to get the pole out! It’s absolutely ridiculous. This actually stared happening to me a year after buying my bass tracker band new! I even took the poles out and sanded on them some where they insert in to the floor. It helped some. Might have to try sanding them down a little more.

  • Michael L
    Michael L 6 months ago

    A big screwdriver would work better then a crowbar.

  • Richard NZ
    Richard NZ 6 months ago

    an't nothing funny about a etec

    • John Smith
      John Smith 6 months ago

      I'm thinking of buying a 2009 40hp etec. Please let me know if there are some known problems with this engine.

  • Everything Life
    Everything Life 7 months ago

    Next time use a dub of motorkote. No, not an engine oil! Motorkote, and seat will come off much easier

  • Richard NZ
    Richard NZ Year ago

    Sand paper the tube abit , some good marine grease 😁👍

  • steve reed
    steve reed Year ago

    This guy is an absolute moron! Unbolt it from the floor spray it with some liquid wrench and tap it off with a rubber mallet!!

    • Jim Facteau
      Jim Facteau 7 months ago

      works every time, work smarter not harder. Some Wd40 goes a long ways preventing this

    • CANUCK OUTDOORS
      CANUCK OUTDOORS Year ago

      Okay, so it was less then four minutes to pop this seat out at the boat ramp with no tools either then what was in the tire change kit on my vehicle which any tow vehicle would be carrying. Though your solution to unbolt the seals and knock the post out would almost work (if it were not for the fact that the bottom of the base is sealed and you cannot acess it from the otherside even after removing the base.) It would take much longer and require tools that I do not carry around with me. Even if your solution was practical I would effectively have to take the boat back to the shop to access tools to do this (a half hour drive each way), then spend 20 minutes of my time in a perfect scenario removing the screws, tapping out the base, and then resealing and installing the base. However with my solution I did it in under five minutes. Also so you understand how the base is installed, the seat base is installed by 6 self tapping screws that come coated with sealant at the factory directly form Alumacraft. The bottom of the base is solid and water tight. So upon removal the screws they have to be replaced with new sealed screws, or you could apply sealant to the new screws (which I do not carry around with me either). Also after that it would be smart to seal the base as well, which most are, as water intrusion into the plywood and foam is not generally a good thing. Furthermore you also have to hope that previous holes still holds the screws and do not get reamed out. If as much as one of them goes out you are SOL on all of them as you have to rotate the base and start again. Also since the diameter of the base remains consistent and cannot be changed you cannot just add bigger screws either. So you would have to then rotate the base on the spot after filling all the previous holes with sealant, and then pre-drill all new pilot holes, and then re-coat the screws and add them and then reseal the base. At least that is the proper by the book way to do it. So I am not sure how doing it a much more efficient way makes me a moron. I guess the last five years of working at and managing a marine dealership just sort of got to my head a bit. But I have only installed maybe 20 or 30 of them tops, so maybe I leave it for smart guys like yourself now.

  • R Tiller
    R Tiller Year ago

    Probably wouldn't hurt to put a little lube on them before putting the base tube back in the next time.

    • CANUCK OUTDOORS
      CANUCK OUTDOORS Year ago

      Yeah I do lube them. For some reason the rear base was warped. This was the first time I tried using it. The seat still works great in all the other holes. We have replaced a few of the bases where I work already.

  • Blake Dennis
    Blake Dennis Year ago

    You use a flathead screwdriver and pry the button in. Then you hit it With the hammer handle a few times around it and then she pops out. Don't bash a company because you don't lube your seats man.

    • CANUCK OUTDOORS
      CANUCK OUTDOORS Year ago

      Seats are lubed regularly. Only the rear hole sticks, it was deformed from factory. I work at a large volume marine dealership and we change multiple bases per year from this brand.

  • Over50 Adventures

    Next time work smarter, not harder. Unscrew the base from the floor and remove entire assembly - seat/post/base. Then tap the base off with a mallet instead of fighting with it...works every time. Youre welcome.

    • Gary music
      Gary music 2 months ago

      won't work base screws turn have nut on bottom side no access to them ???

    • CANUCK OUTDOORS
      CANUCK OUTDOORS Year ago

      This way took less then 5 minutes, and it was accomplished with the tools I had at the boat ramp. It as more of a video on what to do in a similar situation. If I was at my shop I could of done it the way you suggested. The rear base actually was warped on the inside. This has happened to a few other customers boats as well.

  • thecursedfisherman

    All inflatables will inflate with moisture except those with an HIT inflator ! They operate under hydrostatic pressure!

  • MineChris 2008
    MineChris 2008 Year ago

    oops